Installed An Auxiliary Trans Cooler (04/17/12)....

[EcoBrick Bob]

Is that methanol in the bottle????:eyebrows::eyebrows: Nice Hands....:RpS_wub::RpS_wub:

[tmcphail]

Very nice. My goal was to assemble the most comprehensive kit I could given the collective information we have now. So now since I have a good stock of the core components I need a list of people that want to go forward with the revised kit.

[bpd1151]

Is that methanol in the bottle????:eyebrows::eyebrows: Nice Hands....:RpS_wub::RpS_wub:

 

Why yes Bob.... it is.... it's the Methanol that I ingest in order to keep me cool and running fast :painkiller:

 

And those are the hands of a soon to be 13 year old.... so umm :hand:

 

 

Very nice.

 

My goal was to assemble the most comprehensive kit I could given the collective information we have now.

 

Yea, as it was my goal too by just getting this mod off to a start to begin with....

 

It certainly has been a collaborative effort & I thank fellow EB forums member dbulldog, and you as well Torrie, for having as much contributing input as you both have had....

 

I hope the end result bodes well for all parties interested in this mod :thumb:

 

I will post pics of the remaining parts when they arrive and MAY also do a "How-To" when it comes to arranging some wrenching time.

 

So as always good people.... stay tuned :couch2:

 

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk

[bpd1151]

Ok good EB Forums peeps......

 

I picked up the remainder of my parts yesterday from my Dealership. There is one hitch at this point though, the hose clamps have been placed on back order, and are NOT expected to be in until sometime in May of 2012. No word on beginning, middle, or end of May.

 

Either way, I am suspecting that I will be able to re-use my existing hose clamps, if not, it's a trivial item that shouldn't be pertinent to install of this mod.

 

The other thing that I noticed, and I'm not sure if Torrie will chime in on this (or not) but, as you will see below, the various nuts, bolts, etc all come in packages with a quantity of four (4).

 

So if Torrie is intending on selling these as a "complete kit" he may be provide the proper quantities as spec'd out by him in previous posts within this thread.

 

I however, had to pay for ALL of them, but my parts guy took care of me, so it wasn't a huge addition to the overall costs involved.

 

Also, as discussed previously in this thread, that dubious "unknown" part still appears identical to what is currently being used on the 2010-2012 SHO's stock cooler(s).

 

This is that tube assembly that runs directly from the trans housing, to the thermal bypass valve. Even though the parts numbers have changed for 2013, no one I've spoken with has been able to verify what, if any, the changes are/were from prior MY's.

 

I suspect that perhaps internally, something has been changed within the thermal bypass valve housing to help accomodate the addition of the new auxiliary cooler. But again, this is just merely a suspicion on my end at this juncture.

 

To that end, here are the pics of the remaining parts:

 

 

DG1Z-7R081-A Assembly Tube w/ Attached Thermal Bypass Valve:

 

 

 

W710879-S439 Cooler Bolt(s):

 

 

 

8C3Z-7Z465-A Plastic Latch(es):

 

 

 

W711538-S440 Bolt:

 

 

 

W520101-S441 Nut:

 

 

 

 

Once I am able to arrange some wrench/shop/lift time with my mechanic friend, I will post pics up accordingly of the install. I did mosey around through my Dealer's secret squirrley inventory parking lot and scoped out a new 2013 Taurus PI that was parked back yonder, and preliminary inspection looks like the auxiliary cooler is simply mounted into the underside of the front frame rail, bolted in, and sits approx 2" or so away from the stock cooler.

 

Hope all is well with everyone who's reading, and/or interested in this mod. I'll keep y'all posted when updates occur :thumb:

 

Mike :wave:

[tmcphail]

I assembled my original kit price and part number quantity based on what my perceived need for it was given the part replacement information listed in the Ford cataloging system.

[bpd1151]

Cool beans Torrie :thumb:

 

I suspect, just by looking at some of these final items I purchased, some of them may be able to be re-used. Like the various, nuts, bolts, etc.

 

Eh, we'll see I guess right :noidea:

 

I feel more than comfortable though having extras on immediate stand by in the event something unforeseen goes awry.

 

As always, a pleasure having you here and your expertise/input on this issue is much appreciated.

[tmcphail]

Not a problem.

 

I am loaded up on stock of the original 4 items and only have one solid confirmation on the whole kit right now.

[bpd1151]

Possible wrench time / install next Tuesday 04/17/12.

 

Tentative only and contigent on my shop pal's incoming workload over the next few days, but we'll see how it goes :whistle:

[Crash712us]

I'll be taking one them off your hands Torrie soon, what's the best way to get this set up from you?

[tmcphail]

I'll be taking one them off your hands Torrie soon' date=' what's the best way to get this set up from you?[/quote']

 

PM me. I have 2 full sets of the remaining components in bound.

[Got5onIt]

I'm very anxious to see the final product and installation information.

[thePUNISHER]

200* is normal operating temps for the 6f50 and 55. 220 in short intervals is no big deal...at least not for this tranny..... when you begin approaching 230 and higher this can be detrimental to seals. they can begin to harden ,etc....some fluids will also begin to lose some of their properties but i dont think so in this case. LV fluid is fords latest and greatest syn.....

 

the added oem cooler setup is nice. id like to see the datalogged temps after the install in all driving conditions..... if this doesnt do the job i would remove the thermal bypass block and have another block made that would go right in its place. like a bypass delete...... im pretty sure you cannot disassemble them (you can remove the quick connect fittings) so another would have to be made employing a straight thru in-out design. this would make for full time cooler flow......

 

also i saw in another post that the fluid is routed thru another component to help heat it so you can drive immediatly after cold startup. this is not true....this is the purpose of the thermal bypass. to bypass cooler flow to fast warm the fluid. the fluid cooler is part of the a/c condenser. but this is only for space saving....and no other purpose.

[bpd1151]

Thanks PUN for the added technical info.... much MUCH appreciated :hail:

 

Glad to see you posting up here btw :thumb:

 

As far as my own personal experience goes, after installing a trans temp gauge (amongst others) and having motored around in the unusual stretch of 80 degree days we had in ChiTown at the time, I did notice my temps ratcheting up to 220.

 

I wasn't being super hard on it mind you, but I wasn't Sunday morning driving it either.

 

She never got beyond 220, but it was enough of a concern for me personally to have started investigating the possibility of an added / auxiliary cooler.

 

After discussing it with my mechanic / shop pal out by me, he agreed that an added cooler would be of benefit, especially if/when, I considered tracking the car. Which i'll add I still haven't done yet, EVER.

 

When I learned FMC was incorporating an added cooler for the 2013 models, my pal suggested that was/is the best way to go, and BLAMO! There's where this thread began sprouting it's wings and took off from there.

 

I know PUN that your expertise is in transmissions from what others have told me behind the scenes, so you posting here and providing some insight on the matter is truly appreciated by me, and our members.

 

Hopefully the addition of an auxiliary cooler will be of some added benefit and will also help ward off any long term, potential "issues" from having possibly driven it hard (and NOT having the extra cooler) and causing some sort of irrepreable harm.

 

I'm inclined to protect my investment while simultaneously enjoying the added performance benefits of any mods I do employ / install :whistle:

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

[bpd1151]

**UPDATE, 04/17/12, INSTALL COMPLETED**

 

Alrighty........ fan-freak'n-tastic post install results.

 

I installed these parts today, and the install was quite literally, a breeze.

 

No problems whatsoever.

 

This was so freak'n easy, I am NOT even think'n, or doing for that matter, a "How-To".

 

For those of you doing this mod, it's as simple as loosening 3 bolts, 2 nuts, and drilling 2 holes and blamo, done!

 

As far as parts go, I can also tell you that Torrie may want to revise his parts list, and it may even save y'all a few dollars for w/e it 's worth.

 

The following parts will be needed, and anything beyond is really unnecessary.....

 

Auxiliary Cooler, DG1Z7A095D List price from Ford @ $161.46

 

Tube Assembly, DG1Z-7R081-J List price from Ford @ $122.05

 

Tube Assembly (w/ New Thermal Bypass Valve), DG1Z-7R081-A List price from Ford @ $67.82

 

Outlet Tube / Hose, DG1Z-7W064-A List price from Ford @ $19.72

 

Inlet Tube / Hose, DG1Z-7W063-A List price from Ford @ $16.30

 

Gray Plastic Latch / Retainer (Qty 2), 8C3Z-7Z465-A List price from Ford @ $9.00 each

 

As well as two, self tapping bolts of your own choosing, found at any local hardware store (to mount the auxiliary cooler itself to the underside of the front frame rail).

 

You will NOT need any extra nuts, bolts, hose clamps, etc. etc as originally thought.

 

 

I did end up re-using two of the hose clamps from the old parts, and placed those where the Inlet, and Outlet tubes/hoses connect to the auxiliary cooler itself.

 

I also ended up re-using two of the gray plastic latches from the old parts, and placed those onto the new hose / tube assembly's.

 

I also end up using two common, self tapping bolts, found at any local hardware store, to mount the cooler itself to the frame rail.

 

So now I have a bunch of parts left over that aren't really even necessary as I re-used the two bolts (one each) located at the point where the tubes connect to the top of the trans housing itself.

 

There are also two nuts where the thermal bypass valve is fastened to the car, which I also re-used those.

 

Essentially, you WILL have to remove the entire front bumper clip in order to perform this mod correctly / successfully.

 

You can follow my "How-To" on removing the front bumper clip by following this link here: http://www.ecoboostownerforums.com/showthread.php?76-quot-How-To-quot-Remove-Front-Bumper-(on-2010-SHO)-amp-Install-Mobsteel-Grilles

 

Once you've removed the front bumper, you will then have to remove the air cleaner box / assembly.

 

Afterwards, you will need to loosen the two bolts (one each) found at the top of the trans housing. One is located pretty much under the air box itself. See/Refer to pic below:

 

 

It should look like this after you've loosened the bolt and removed it:

 

 

The 2nd bolt (which looks EXACTLY like the 1st one pictured above) is located literally just to the rear of the battery, closer to the engine block. Simply follow the cooler line back and peer down from the rear of the battery, and you'll see it. See/Refer to the below pics:

 

 

 

 

 

Removing the battery is NOT necessary to do as there is plenty of room to slide your hand under the battery itself to wiggle the cooler line out from under it. When removing this bolt, I doubled up two socket extensions in order to get the socket to reach down on top of the bolt to loosen it.

 

Next up, loosen the two nuts that hold the thermal bypass valve onto the car (just above and slightly to the left of my finger in this pic below):

 

 

There is one last bolt that is located towards the front of the stock cooler, that holds the vertical tube assembly's into place (to the right side of the stock cooler if you were to be facing the car). It bolts the hangar into place.

 

You will then need to have a second set of hands to help hold the auxiliary cooler itself into place, in order to mark the holes where you will need to drill into the bottom portion of the front frame rail.

 

If you look at this pic below, off to the left, the black mounting bracket that comes attached to the cooler, there is a "T" or a tab that will need to be bent downwards (and out of the way) so that the top of the bracket sits flush with the underside of the frame rail.

 

The tab is on the right side of the that mounting bracket in this pic.

 

 

Then simply re-install all the new tube assembly's back into the EXACT SAME POSITION where the old one's were previously located, using the EXACT SAME NUTS AND BOLTS.

 

Re-attach your gray plastic latches as seen below. Two used near the thermal bypass valve, the other two used where the Inlet and Outlet Tubes coming from the auxiliary cooler and attaching to the lower portion of the vertical tube assembly's coming off of the stock cooler. See/Refer to the two pics below:

 

 

 

Then be sure to top off your trans fluid as I lost about a 1/2 quart simply when disconnecting all of the old parts off of, and away from the car, and then you'll have to add about another 1/4 of a quart or so to make up for the added volume of the auxiliary cooler.

 

Here's a finished pic my install:

 

 

Sorry for the blurry pic...... One last note, when attaching the Inlet and Outlet tubes to the auxiliary cooler itself, I chose to drill the holes and mount the cooler BEFORE attaching the Inlet/Outlet tubes. Why?

 

Well because there is excess length of hose that will need to be cut / trimmed down, before performing the final attachment to the cooler. Also, this where I re-used the old hose clamps from the old assembly.

 

 

Seriously this install was a piece of cake :fish2:

[Crash712us]

Excellent write up Mike! Ordered up mine last week from Torrie.

[bpd1151]

Now immediately after buttoning the car back together. I took the SHO out for a VERY spirited drive, well in EXCESS of the posted speed limits....

 

and I am happy to report that the tranny temps never got beyond 180.

 

Hell, even then, it took quite a while to get up to that temp.

 

When I got back home, I let the car sit for about a 1/2 hour as I had other things to get done before heading off to my physical therapy appointment.

 

Once I hopped back in the 2nd time around, I was forced, yes forced for the most part, to drive "normal" as I was no longer on the country bumpkin roads where my mechanic friend's shop is located.

 

As such, during "normal" driving, the tranny temps stayed around 158-160 and I can physically watch the needle go downwards to around 152 degrees when approaching a stop light, or what have you.

 

It was really strange to see the needle moving downwards like that.

 

I can't help but think that besides the auxiliary cooler itself, that there has to be some sort of internal change within the new thermal bypass valve that I imagine is opening / closing at a lower set temperature, versus the original one that I removed from my car. That's just my guess, and I'm really not a 100% sure :noidea:

 

Now to be fair, the temps were about 62-64 degrees, and it would be unfair for me to compare the 200, to 220 temp ranges I was seeing in the low to mid 80 degree days we had just a few weeks ago.

 

But regardless, the temps NEVER exceeded 180.

 

It was insane to me how much harder the car was pulling from a dead stop and flooring it. Even from a roll of say about 55/60MPH, the car would launch me backwards and the shifts were even firmer than what they were when I loaded the LMS tunes into my ECM.

 

I think a big part of that is a DIRECT result of the tranny temps operating at a much cooler temperature.

 

Big kudos to Ford for developing this part, and making it easy as sh!t to retro onto the pre-2013 model years.

 

 

Now these are just initial observations and I will continue to monitor my tranny temps as the weather gets warmer here in Chi-Town and report back here accordingly, but 1st impressions are that I am absolutely elated at this mod and I highly recommend it to all of you guys/gals, especially those that are tracking their cars.

 

This auxiliary cooler is da bomb :thumb:

[mjhpadi]

Wow, the difference in the before and after is really impressive, not withstanding the difference in the weather. It is so impressive that I think this will be added as a must have mod. I think this might even move ahead of getting my gauges and pod installed. Only thing that bothers me is removing the front clip, but I think following your how-to will simplify it. I also think I have found a good mechanic that will be willing to help tackle this project and not charge an outrageous price for the work. Keep us updated on your observations on the difference you see with the aux. cooler.

[mjhpadi]

I know that Torrie posted about ordering the kit from him, but I can't see to find it....can someone direct me to it, please?

[bpd1151]

I know that Torrie posted about ordering the kit from him' date=' but I can't see to find it....can someone direct me to it, please?[/b']

 

Shoot him a PM or an email.

 

This kit is so new, that it's not up on his website yet.

 

As far as I understand it, he's purposely with holding putting it up on his site until he fulfills orders from EB Forums members 1st....

 

Speaking of 1st's..... I do believe I am officially the 1st, (pre-2013) owner ever to have performed this mod......

 

Nice :couch2:

 

 

 

_________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

 

By the way Mark, removing the front clip is almost as easy as installing this auxiliary cooler.

 

You seriously will be kicking yourself, or at least scratching your head at how little actually holds the front end onto the car.

 

I can honestly get it done with my eyes closed at this point, and have had it off and on so many times, that I can get it done within 10 minutes.

 

The one thing I have learned since having written up that "How-To" on removing it........

 

( found here by the way------> http://www.ecoboostownerforums.com/showthread.php?76-quot-How-To-quot-Remove-Front-Bumper-(on-2010-SHO)-amp-Install-Mobsteel-Grilles )

 

........is that removing the entire wheel well under skin is NOT NECESSARY.

 

If this saves you (and any others) a step or two then great :thumb:

 

Essentially, there are still three screws located towards the fronts of each respective wheel well, along the lower, outer edges that still need to be removed simply so that when one goes to disengage the entire front clip, that those 3 screws aren't holding the wheel well skin to the clip itself.

 

That's a short cut I've learned, but have just never gone in and re-edited that "How-To" yet.

 

So buck up and grow some balls (proverbially speaking) and feel confident in your own abilities to this job :cheer2:

 

 

 

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[EcoBoostSHO]

Awesome! Thanks a ton for doing this. This just went on my have to do list...

[EcoBrick Bob]

Very nice! How long did it take, start to finish, including front clip removal/replace?

[bpd1151]

Very nice! How long did it take' date=' start to finish, including front clip removal/replace?[/quote']

 

2 hours or so..... at a relaxed pace.

 

 

 

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[tmcphail]

2 hours or so..... at a relaxed pace.

 

 

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

 

And once you go through it the first time you realize how easy it is. Good time to move to an upgraded radiator too.

[bpd1151]

And once you go through it the first time you realize how easy it is. Good time to move to an upgraded radiator too.

 

CORRECT! Looking back on it now, If I chose to really stay focused on it, and hit it, at even a medium fast pace, 1 to 1.5hrs tops.

 

My installs, especially if they're "new" to me, coupled with the fact I like to take photos along the way, for various "How-To" write ups etc.....

 

Will inevitably add more time into the equation. I would bargain to say that this wouldn't be the case for most others.

 

But I like helping out where I can. This is how I learned how to do so much on my award winning '07 Dodge Charger, which was by following others "How-To" write ups.

 

I was so impressed with other owners willingness, and desire(s) to help out others, I chose to do the same myself.

 

So yes, for most of you, this mod should, even with being new, should take you I would guess 2hrs at most.

[tmcphail]

I have 2 complete systems ready to go, they will ship out today. Anyone on the fence about this needs to get a hold of me if you want a set. I will have 2-3 more ready in days.