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Installed An Auxiliary Trans Cooler (04/17/12)....


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I seen his comments. I've been a mechanic for nearly 2 decades now and certainly thought that the thermal bypass could have been a problem, it would do what you experienced. I find it amusing that ford did a redesign or at least changed the part number of the new thermal bypass valve, meaning to me they didn't like some aspect of its operation.

 

I've ordered the cooler kit from Torrie awhile ago but have no way of monitoring my trans temp right now. I'm sure results will be similar with both our rides.

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I find it amusing that Ford did a redesign or at least changed the part number of the new thermal bypass valve' date=' meaning to me they didn't like some aspect of its operation.[/b']

 

I completely agree. I find it odd too (about the thermal bypass valve, etc) from what my mechanic pal friend said, it's not entirely uncommon for Ford to simply change part numbers w/o actually doing any substantial change within the respective parts itself.

 

Hell, even I questioned the necessity of this part itself as it was another almost $70 charge alone for that portion of the tube assembly.

 

Physically, at least from the exterior, they both look like the same damn thing.

 

No one I've spoken with has been able to verify if there was some sort of internal change, or not (within the thermal bypass valve).

 

My gut tells me there is/was and besides the mere addition of the cooler itself, that there would logically be some change in the opening/closing rate(s) of the valve to allow the fluid itself to cycle through all of the related parts, and in turn cool at lower temps.

 

Speculation on part, absolutely my friend :moony:

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I completely agree. I find it odd too (about the thermal bypass valve, etc) from what my mechanic pal friend said, it's not entirely uncommon for Ford to simply change part numbers w/o actually doing any substantial change within the respective parts itself.

 

Hell, even I questioned the necessity of this part itself as it was another almost $70 charge alone for that portion of the tube assembly.

 

Physically, at least from the exterior, they both look like the same damn thing.

 

No one I've spoken with has been able to verify if there was some sort of internal change, or not (within the thermal bypass valve).

 

My gut tells me there is/was and besides the mere addition of the cooler itself, that there would logically be some change in the opening/closing rate(s) of the valve to allow the fluid itself to cycle through all of the related parts, and in turn cool at lower temps.

 

Speculation on part, absolutely my friend :moony:

 

a part # change can take place for many reasons....even when the vendor that actually manufactures the part is changed, so is the part #.....

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:deadhorse: OK, you've convinced me this is a must have...I will be ordering a kit from Torrie in the near future, once again another mod gets moved ahead of my gauges and pod install :doh: although it I will be waiting a few weeks to order, since I just got my son an AC and refrigerator for his room at college, but I will be ordering a kit. OHH, and a heads up Mike, if I can't talk my buddy into assisting me, I may show up on your doorstep so you can help me do the install later this summer!

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OK, you've convinced me this is a must have...I will be ordering a kit from Torrie in the near future.

 

Ohh, and a heads up Mike, if I can't talk my buddy into assisting me, I may show up on your doorstep so you can help me do the install later this summer!

 

Sounds like a plan...... be glad to help out :yo:

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Mike has promised me he will drive out to Clear Lake and install mine for a 12 pack of BUD!!!!!!

 

I did? :noidea:

 

When? Maybe during Spring Break when there's a bunch of naked college women running aimlessly around.....

 

Besides, it would be for specialty, micro-brews, definitely not any mass produced, waterered down beer.

 

This micro brewery has been my favorite for many, many years and is highly rated as one of the Country's best-------> http://www.3floyds.com/

 

And it's right in my own back yard :thumb:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just finished installing my cooler kit today. It went very good, I had to add about 1.2 liters of lv to get it to back to it's proper level but it's an easy install and the benefits should be substaintial. It does look alittle suseptible to rock damage so I'm thinking a stone guard/screen is going to be in order.

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I did? :noidea:

 

When? Maybe during Spring Break when there's a bunch of naked college women running aimlessly around.....

 

Besides, it would be for specialty, micro-brews, definitely not any mass produced, waterered down beer.

 

 

 

This micro brewery has been my favorite for many, many years and is highly rated as one of the Country's best-------> http://www.3floyds.com/

 

And it's right in my own back yard :thumb:

 

How about "Dale's Pale Ale"???????

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Just finished installing my cooler kit today.

 

It went very good, I had to add about 1.2 liters of lv to get it to back to it's proper level....

 

But it's an easy install and the benefits should be substaintial.

 

 

That's great to hear! It's almost silly how easy it is/was to install would you agree?

 

Any pics?

 

Also, keep the community posted on what kind of temps you're seeing in relation to outdoor temps/conditions, driving style(s), etc.

 

I'm sure I'm not the only one interested in hearing about your experiences post install. Thanks :hail:

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FYI......

 

I just found out from fellow EB Forums member crash712us (Chris) that for those of you with the ACC option, the extended auxiliary cooler lines are either partially, or entirely in the way of that radar device.

 

I never thought about this being an issue, as one of the few options I don't have is, the ACC.

 

I asked Chris to take as many pictures both pre, and post-install to help out those of you who do have ACC.

 

Hell, I don't even know what that contraption even looks like, what it's size is, etc.

 

I wanted to get this info out there A.S.A.P. so y'all with ACC can already start think'n of what to do as far as relocating that part.

 

Since, in it's stock location, is already mounted behind a solid piece of plastic, my suggestion (again, not knowing what it looks like, etc.) to splice in some extra wire and relocate it elsewhere.

 

There might even be a possibility of zip tieing it onto on of the extended cooler lines with the intent of trying to keep it as close to the stock location as possible, not sure :noidea:

 

Anyhow, just wanted to provide an update from another member's experiences.

 

I believe Chris will chime in here with his suggestions on resolving the ACC issue, along with hopefully some pics.

 

For those of you w/o ACC, still should be smooth sailing.

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

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Thanks Mike for fielding this for me, I am tired enough already. And yes once I come with a solution I post as much info as possible. Got a idea that I hope will pan out but it will be tight. But as of right no the new T section of cooler pluming is occupying the same space the ACC radar once did. Question, does the 2013 PP SHO have ACC as option now, and if so where did they put it. And if not, we know the reason why now. Night folks been a looooong day for me.

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crash712us pic text msg'd me this image of the ACC radar device removed from his car.....

 

 

imagejpeg_2.jpg

 

 

My suggestion, upon viewing this image, would be for those of you with ACC to either try to somehow remove the device itself from that excessively large mounting bracket, and if that's not a doable option, maybe consider using a flat piece of metal stock and fab'n a bracket piece onto the stock bracket arms and figuring out where you can mount it from there.....

 

Or hell, maybe even consider bust'n out the hack saw and doing completely away with the extended bracket arms altogether. Then zip tieing it in somehow.

 

Either way, I can't imagine it's gotta be all that difficult. Remember people, your ADDING products. This, by it's very nature, constitutes modding. Let's see some creativity from you ACC owners to help each other, and crash712us out :thumb:

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Your thinking like I am Mike...

 

That long part is gone in the morning.

 

Along with some other mods to the bracket I hope to shoe horn in there.

 

Oh and the 2013 PP sho no ACC, now we know why.

 

NP Chris.....

 

I know it's late by you, get some rest, reapproach it in the morning.

 

Maybe others will have chimed in here with some addt'l suggestions.

 

Wish I was there to personally help, we'd have that minor snafu taken care of lickety split.

 

GL though. :thumb:

 

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

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What's on the other side? Not sure if there is a cover there or not. Or... perhaps you could move it closer to the center and make some sort of cover to protect it like it was before. Assume it's weatherproof/waterproof, and plastic cover area is for protection from flying objects.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on this and order one from Tori (right after I have the dealer perform the Tranny TSB) but I do have one question...I believe (from previous reading) that the old 'built in' trans cooler is part of the AC condenser...correct? Once you disconnect the tubing do you just drain it and leave it in place? Do you cap it off at all?

 

Thanks!

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So I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on this and order one from Tori (right after I have the dealer perform the Tranny TSB) but I do have one question...I believe (from previous reading) that the old 'built in' trans cooler is part of the AC condenser...correct? Once you disconnect the tubing do you just drain it and leave it in place? Do you cap it off at all?

 

Thanks!

Yes, you correct about A/C condenser. You lose maybe half quart of fluid when disconnecting lines just have something to catch, and it took me about a 1 1/2 qrts to top it off. Also I recommend buying this disconnect tool. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TQ6P40/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_dp_1

Other disconnect tools will not work, I tired with the 2 set I had. Also I must assume you do not have ACC, if so your in the clear. I'm still needing time to sort that issue out. Also you don't need to remove bumper to do, I did mine just by removing lower cover just under bumper. However some long needle nose pliers and spark boot pliers will be need for unhooking and the hooking oil lines behind grill.

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Yes, you correct about A/C condenser. You lose maybe half quart of fluid when disconnecting lines just have something to catch, and it took me about a 1 1/2 qrts to top it off. Also I recommend buying this disconnect tool. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TQ6P40/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_dp_1

Other disconnect tools will not work, I tired with the 2 set I had. Also I must assume you do not have ACC, if so your in the clear. I'm still needing time to sort that issue out. Also you don't need to remove bumper to do, I did mine just by removing lower cover just under bumper. However some long needle nose pliers and spark boot pliers will be need for unhooking and the hooking oil lines behind grill.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I will definitely get one of those tools. I don't have ACC so that won't be an issue. Hopefully you can get it figured out.

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Yes, you correct about A/C condenser.

 

You lose maybe half quart of fluid when disconnecting lines just have something to catch, and it took me about a 1 1/2 qrts to top it off.

 

Also I recommend buying this disconnect tool. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TQ6P40/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_dp_1

 

Other disconnect tools will not work, I tired with the 2 set I had.

 

 

Great info (and link) to have posted for other members to be able to accomplish this mod Chris :thumb:

 

This looks similar to the tool my mechanic pal had, however (as we discussed behind the scenes this issue) his did not work either.

 

As I told you, we simply ended up cutting the OEM lines as I had no intention of retaining any portion of the OEM set up.

 

So other members should benefit greatly from your inclusion of this part.....

 

If this thread grows much longer, I may have to create an entirely separate "How-To" thread on this, and I will be sure to include your link to this part Chris.

 

Thanks once again for your input.

 

Mike :yo:

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You don't need the disconnect tool, it would be nice but not needed. You can simply unscrew the 19mm nuts on the steel tubes that enter the thermal bypass and remove the steel lines and then the thermal bypass and rubber hoses come out easily. Then simply push your new lines into your new fittings when everything is fitted up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not to my knowledge...... nope.

 

I think fellow EBOF member crash712us has been super busy as of late, & is still awaiting some free time to occur so he can approach the issue yet again.

 

In the meantime, i'm happy to report that given the mid 90 degree temps this past weekend, my tranny temps still haven't gone beyond 180 yet.

 

Very VERY happy with this mod even to this day!

 

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2

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