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#60500 LME Downpipe update

Posted by bamsho on 06 April 2015 - 01:21 PM

Well finally got the car on the track this past weekend with the new DP's install.  All I can say is WOW, if you they are in your future and budget.  GET THEM!!  They are so worth it.  Car ran a new best, and even with a 10-15 mph headwind.  She ran a best of 12.75 @ 107.   Ran in the high 12's all day.  Tried out my new GoPro too.  Only had one launch with little wheel spin, other than that she just took off. 


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#62357 Crickets......

Posted by bpd1151 on 17 June 2017 - 04:43 AM

Hmmmm...... awfully quiet around these parts lately.

Hope everyone is well, and simply enjoying their Summer.

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#62167 Chris "Crash" Curtis

Posted by mval on 18 April 2017 - 12:29 PM

todd:

yes it is, although he didn't linger long, looking at glass 1/2 full that's a blessing. corresponded with his daughter & she said he's probably now up in the pearly gates car shopping since he couldn't take his beloved sho with him & knowing chris the little i did but enough, we know it's a ford. maybe he's bidding his time waiting for the 1st GT to total so it can be his, or maybe as boss 429 that needs a new owner. whatever we know he won't be with a car for long.


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#61880 just a pic of the MKS today...

Posted by tss on 27 February 2017 - 01:33 PM

I took this picture early this morning in my gym parking lot. I just wanted to share it somewhere. LOL.
 
Car is a 2010 and  has 86,000 miles on it. Tough to keep it clean in the winter in Michigan but this winter has worked out fairly well.
 
 
 
mks%20%20mac_zpsl9j32m1p.jpg

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#61817 Be mindful of posting videos / pictures!

Posted by bpd1151 on 18 February 2017 - 08:54 AM

Shared this article I came across yesterday with a few close friends, and thought it would be equally as informative to the community as a whole.

This is a trend I am seeing happening more and more, which doesn't surprise me really, but certainly lends itself food for thought.

Here's the article:

http://abc7chicago.c...bility/1760658/

That said, please, for the love of God, be mindful of what y'all post out there. It could lead to a direct impact on your pocket book(s), or worse yet, being completely dropped altogether. Yikes!

Notice they specifically mention racing. *SMH*

Carry on good people.

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#60598 Custom '10 Grill

Posted by tgrfly4 on 03 May 2015 - 11:16 AM

So this is actually something I pulled from from this site and I figured I would share my attempt and how-to. 
 
So I bought a 12" x 48" universal black mesh sheet from Custom Car Grills and also bought their 1/8" trim to go with this project. This project isn't hard to do, but its also not easy to do. This project does require you to cut your stock grill out as well. 
 
 
To start off you will have to pull your bumper. In order to do this there are (2) 10mm bolts and (8) pan head screws that have to be removed from under the hood. 
0503151044_1.jpg
 
Once you get these out there are (3) screws in each fender well holding the splash guard to the bumper as well as the stupid plastic screw in buttons that always strip out in the top corners behind the splash guards. Next you will have 8 IIRC 8mm bolts along the bottom of the bumper securing it to the skid plate. Once these are all removed the corners of the bumper will have to be tugged on due to snapping in and then the bumper will be loose. You will also have to unplug the DRL. After this the bumper should be completely free. 
 
From here you will need to start removing things from the bumper. I started off with the reinforcement bar which is held in by 4 clips. After this you can start removing the grill itself. It is a total of 3 pieces. Each piece has a number of snaps which were a real PITA to get to cooperate. 
0501151103.jpg
 
Once you have the grill pieces separated you should be left with this.
0501151102.jpg
The grill itself is removable entirely, but I chose to leave it in for rigidity purposes. From this point you need to start taping off your grill so you can get ready to cut. 
0501151116.jpg
I used a fine line tape that I had laying around to do the initial lines and then added the extra green tape for protection purposes. I tried using my Dremel and it worked but I was eating up cutting discs quick so I switched to my sand barrel attachment and then started eating through those too so then I switch to our pneumatic cut off wheel which got the job done. I started by cutting the cross bar out which actually allowed me some room to move. In the corners I switched back to my Dremel and the sanding barrel to get in the corners (nice and deep like) like I needed to. After you are done cutting it also may not be a bad idea to take a piece of 220 or 360 grit sandpaper along the edges to smooth them out. They don't have to be perfect because you will be putting the neoprene trim over the edge now.
0501151217.jpg
 
0501151218.jpg
 
Now that this is done, take your mesh sheet and roughly mark out some cut lines. I used a white china pencil we had laying around to mark my black mesh. I would suggest laying the mesh down and using the backside of the grill as a template to mark everything out, just make it a touch bigger. You will end up having to make some more cuts later. Once marked out, make your cuts. What you want to do is bend the edges down into the valleys on the back side of the bumper. BTW I apologize for not getting any pictures of this step. Hoping you can understand what I'm trying to say. There are also 3 clips from where you removed the grill pieces that you can use to help keep the mesh aligned where it need to be. 
 
Once you get the mesh folded down into the valleys you will need some type of adhesive. The Custom Car Grills site suggests the 3M double sided tape, but I don't trust it that much. I went with a tube of Amazing Goop. I have used this stuff on several projects and it is very strong and flexible as well. You will need an entire tube of it for the main grill. From here, take your Goop and go along the edges of the mesh and lay down a liberal bead in several spots. It doesn't have to be along the entire edge but I would try and cover as much area as possible, then let dry. I put a little bit of weight on the mesh to keep it pressed down while it was drying. 
 
Here is hopefully what you finished up with.
0501151245.jpg
 
0501151245a.jpg
 
And the finished product on the car....
0502151320a.jpg
 
I also tinted the headlights as well as added side emiting LED strips under the headlights at this time too. 
 
Hopefully this helps some guys out a little bit. I'm sure you can find some cheaper mesh, but I went ahead and just bought everything from one spot. 
 
Let me know what everything thinks!

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#60337 Peeling Tail Light Fix

Posted by mjhpadi on 19 March 2015 - 12:16 PM

Some of you are aware that I obtained an extra set of tails to address the peeling chrome issue (thanks to DJE). I recently completed the repair after attempting many different solutions. My final fix was to strip the chrome plated area down to bare plastic and I used Krylon Chrome Paint for plastic. Granted it does not look like chrome but the chrome paint has nice gloss and matches the silver of the wheels, and other silver accents on the car. I honestly think that someone who is not familiar with the SHO would think that the repaired tails are OEM.  Here are a few photos of the finished project:

 

IMG_5808_zpsrbmsyooi.jpg

 

IMG_5805_zpsxchipkd8.jpg

Please don't notice the dirt on this tail...I didn't take the time to clean it after install because I was tired and it was getting cold...

 

IMG_5801_zps8xtyd6im.jpg


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#60141 Fastest MKS

Posted by tss on 17 February 2015 - 04:03 PM



If we added a few bolt ons and got you a new tune revision you would go even faster!


Having recently joined the LME 3 Bar club myself, I can tell you that YES it does make a significant difference. You should contact Jaimie and go for it. I was happy with my 4+, but the new 3 Bar tunes are even better. MY post above was with the 4+. I am simply guessing conservatively that I can get down to a 4.1 0-60 and a 12.6 1/4 mile.....when I am able to test with the 4x when it gets warmer.
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#59336 Great New SHO/MKS Package!

Posted by Livernois Motorsports on 05 September 2014 - 11:23 PM

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#58742 Post Some Pictures of your Ecoboost!

Posted by mjhpadi on 15 June 2014 - 11:14 PM

Here's mine at one of our local state parks...the lake is stocked with trout!

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#58741 Post Some Pictures of your Ecoboost!

Posted by shoman04 on 15 June 2014 - 10:20 PM

My ride at the track for Father Day with my girls.
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#56322 New Battery

Posted by bpd1151 on 24 May 2013 - 02:14 PM

Hello fellow EBOF family...... I was monkeying around today with my SHO, and was hooking up / installing an alternative power supply box that I use to use while doing the bigger car shows back in the day when I had my Charger. I actually own two power supply units, one is 35amps, the newer one is 75amps. Each unit came with a set of power cables. One end (of cables) would mount to your car's battery, the remaining set of cables to the device itself. Then the two cable ends would connect to eachother via quick connect couplers. Nifty lil contraptions I must say, and has saved me many a headaches at the end of w/e show I had been doing, whereas I had power, but many others who had been running their audio, TV's, specialty lighting, etc. found themselves with dead batteries by the end of the show, if not before hand. Anyhow, I happened to just glance down at the "eye" on my factory installed, Motorcraft battery, & noticed 1/2 half was red, the other 1/2 was black. "Uh oh" immediately came to mind and I realized that this is after all, THE factory original battery, which by now, is 3, almost 4 years old, so eh, guess it's time to replace it. My research showed that the BTX-65-650 battery (which is OE) is what Ford considers to be their "medium duty" use battery. I chose to upgrade to the BTX-65-850 battery, which is considered by Ford to be their "Motorcraft MAX" series of batteries and it list's at an MSRP of: $119.95. I was able to find it damn near close to $100 flat from a local parts source, so it was a no brainer. Just thought it'd be nice to toss y'all the proper part #'s, for both the factory / OEM replacement, as well as the upgrade, as well as a reminder for those of you rocking 2010's, or even perhaps 2011's, y'all might want to take a gander at your battery's "eye" and see if yours needs replacing. Would hate to see / hear about any of you getting stranded for something as simple of a fix as this! :thumb: Happy motoring fellow Eco owners!
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#51637 k&n or airraid for 13 SHO?

Posted by tomc612 on 02 March 2013 - 06:26 PM

I can hear Boost now and love how it sounds. I love my K&N..:clap2:


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#31903 2010-2012 Brake Master Cylinder and Brake Booster Retrofit

Posted by themetalmaster on 24 April 2013 - 12:15 PM

This FAQ / DIY is being updated sporadically, some things may change. I may add pictures later, but honestly if you need pictures to do this, you shouldn't be doing it.

Outcome:

On my stock 2011 Ford Taurus SHO the brakes started to engage after depressing the brake pedal about halfway. Being such a heavy (and expensive!) car, this can be quite nerve wracking.

After the retrofit, brakes engage with less than half an inch of pedal travel. The pedal is still somewhat soft, but that is just a characteristic of the car. The pedal feel is exactly what it feels like on the 2013 MY SHO. This is a great supporting mod for a big brake kit, but makes a huge difference with just the stock brakes.

A few things to note:

  • The brake line farthest away from the master cylinder needs to be bent slightly in order to fit into the updated master cylinder. The fittings screw into the new master cylinder just fine.
  • The white plastic elbow connector that provides vacuum to the brake booster needs to be reused.
  • There is also an electrical connector on the new model master cylinder that is used for the park assist on the 2013 cars, but is not used for this installation.
  • The use of Ford High Performance DOT 4 LV is not required because the 2011 Taurus is not equipped with the torque-vectoring system introduced on the 2013 Taurus. The LV (for low-viscosity) fluid is used on many high performance cars that implement torque-vectoring through the ABS / Traction Control system. Any good quality (DOT 3, 4, 5.1 non-silicone) brake fluid will be adequate for this retrofit. I used Valvoline DOT3/4 because of price/performance and availability.


Obligatory:

Its not my fault if you screw up your car. Follow these instructions at your own risk. This is the same exact procedure I used, and it worked out fantastic. Your results may vary.

The tools you need are:

  • An assortment of metric sockets (including deep sockets)
  • Metric crescent wrenches (ratcheting GearWrenches are your friend)
  • Metric flare-nut wrenches (also referred to as line wrenches)
  • A good work light
  • Vinyl tubing (with OD about the same size as the brake line fittings on the master cylinder)
  • Lots of old towels and rags
  • Screwdrivers of various lengths
  • Vise-grips (locking pliers)
  • A plastic bucket
  • Tube bender
  • A buddy to help you bleed the brakes.
  • A knife



Parts:

  • BRMC167 (Master Cylinder)
  • BRB65 (Brake Booster)



Both of these are about $230 shipped from RockAuto.

Consumables you will need:

  • At least 32oz good quality brake fluid (I like Valvoline DOT3/4, blue bottle sold at autoparts stores)
  • Some form of vinyl cap to cover the brake lines, I used an assortment of vacuum line caps I had lying around
  • Electrical tape



The procedure:

  • Start with a cool car that has been sitting for several hours. The intake manifold is metal, and gets really hot and you will have to lean over it.
  • Move the drivers seat as far back as possible and tilt the seat back as far as it will go.
  • Open the hood and place towels on the drivers side fender and front bumper. This is to keep from scratching your paint and getting brake fluid on it. Brake fluid eats paint. Multiple layers of towels are better.
  • Disconnect the battery cables, negative first.
  • Unbolt the battery and remove from car. Do not set the battery directly on concrete, preferably place it on a towel. (This is to prevent the battery from discharging).
  • Wipe off your hands and grab your work light, a flathead screwdriver, some needle-nose pliers, and your small socket wrench. Position yourself in the drivers seat so your head is in the footwell looking up, and your feet are by the headrest (I would recommend taking off your shoes for this).
  • After you are comfortable (hah) use your screwdriver and needle nose pliers to remove the pin that connects the brake booster push rod to the brake pedal. Basically you want to grab the clips that hold the pin in with your pliers, and use the screwdriver to leverage it out.
  • With your small socket wrench, remove the 4 bolts that attaches the brake booster to the car. Ford was kind enough to use lock nuts, so they take forever to remove. Your hand will hurt after this.
  • Climb outside of the car and remove the oil cap, then remove the cosmetic engine cover. Replace oil cap so you don't lose it or drop a socket into the engine.
  • Pull the white vacuum fitting out of the brake booster. Leave it attached to the vacuum hose if you can. It should just pull right out.
  • Remove the front strut brace making sure to unclip the attached wiring harness.
  • With a flat-head screwdriver or appropriate nut driver, loosen the hose clamps on the flexible air intake hose coming from the air box. Remove this hose from the car.
  • Remove the black, hard plastic air intake piping that was previously attached to the flexible air intake hose you just removed. This pipe goes toward the back of the engine and has one eye hole bolt securing it to the valve cover and one hose attached via spring clip. The other end of this pipe is secured by a worm gear hose clamp. This is where you have to lean over the engine. You will need a short screwdriver to get to this.
  • Using a crescent wrench unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster. It will become very apparent why you want a ratcheting crescent wrench here. After removing the nuts retaining the master cylinder make sure the master cylinder can be moved freely away from the brake booster.
  • Pull the plugs out of your new master cylinder and have them handy
  • Place as many rags as you can underneath the master cylinder. Brake fluid will come pouring out once you disconnect the brake lines.
  • Disconnect the brake fluid sensor wire from the master cylinder. If you can unclip the wiring harness from the master cylinder, if not cut the electrical tape off the retaining clip to free the harness. You can salvage this clip later before re installing the new master cylinder.
  • With your flare nut wrench disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder (Do not use a regular wrench or you will round off the brake line fitting and be in a world of hurt). As quickly as possible plug the holes in the master cylinder with the plugs you pulled from the new master cylinder and use the vacuum line caps to cap of the brake lines. Place the master cylinder in a container (this is where the bucket comes in handy). With the rags mop up any spilled brake fluid.
  • Pull the brake booster out of the car. This will require lots of wiggling and re-positioning of wires.
  • Take your new brake booster and install it in the car. Make sure the foam gasket is in place on the backside of the booster. The hole for the vacuum line should be on the top right and the part number label should be toward the bottom. Again, this will require lots of wiggling.
  • Attach the new master cylinder to the new brake booster.
  • Separate the hard brake lines that go to the master cylinder from each other. They are secured with a white clip which holds them together.
  • Take the brake line closest to the front of the car, and pull it several inches to the left. This should increase the angle of the bend closest to the ABS pump. Take your tubing bender and bend the other end of the brake line so that the fitting matches up to the new master cylinder.
  • Get back inside the car and bolt in the new brake booster. Your hand will hate you after this. Attach the pushrod to the brake pedal with the pin you removed earlier. Its a ton easier to put back together than it is to remove.
  • Attach your vinyl tubing to the brake booster. I had some vacuum line in my toolbox that was the right size. Basically just push the tubing into the holes on the outside of the master cylinder. Stick the other end of the tubing into the reservoir and fill the reservoir with your choice of brake fluid. Have your buddy gently work the brake pedal (in and out about 50-80% of the way in) until there are no more bubbles coming through the tubing. This is called bench bleeding and I have found that this is the easiest way to do it. DO NOT LET THE BRAKE PEDAL TOUCH THE FLOOR. Once there are no more bubbles have your buddy press the pedal halfway in, remove the caps from the brake lines and screw the brake lines into the master cylinder.
  • I found it prudent to bleed the brake lines coming from the master cylinder to the ABS pump at this point. Similar procedure as before, but do not let the brake pedal come up if the fittings are open. You do not want to let air into the ABS pump.
  • At this time you can go ahead and bleed the brakes from the wheels if you feel like it. I was tired, and the brake pedal felt really good at this point so I saw no reason to.
  • Clean up any spilled brake fluid and top off the reservoir.
  • Attach the vacuum line to the new brake booster. Remember we reuse the fitting from the old brake booster.
  • Replace the air intake tubing coming from the back of the engine. Make sure the hose is in all the way and the clamps are tight. Boost leaks are bad.
  • Replace the front strut brace. The studs on the struts have loc-tite on them from the factory. It is very important not to over torque these nuts. 10ft/lbs should be fine but will be hard to measure when there is dried loctite on the threads. Hand snug is better. Clip the wiring harness back to the brace.
  • Plug the brake fluid level sensor back in and secure the harness with the old clip using electrical tape.
  • Connect the airbox back to the air intake tubing. Make sure the hose clamps are tight and the hoses are fitted snugly.
  • Replace the battery and decorative engine cover.
  • You may or may not have to adjust the brake light switch. The switch is self adjusting once removed and is the blue module attached to the brake pedal. You will have lots of fun contorting yourself to gain access to it. Basically you remove the switch, rotate the locking tab on it, and reinstall the switch. Make sure your brake lights go off when nothing is touching the pedal. Skipping this step is a good way to kill the battery (ask me how I know).
  • Start the car and make sure the brakes feel like they engage. Get ready to activate the parking brake just in case. Pump the brake pedal several times and make sure you are satisfied with how they feel. If not bleed the brake system again.
  • Close the hood and go for a test drive, be gentle at first. Do a panic stop when safe to do so and make sure the ABS engages.
  • You're done!



Things that can go wrong:
  • Boost leak (make sure to tighten all the hoses)
  • Brakes don't work (Check for leaks and make sure the system is bled)
  • Make sure the brake lights work correctly (You will kill the battery otherwise)

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#31854 Changed RDU fluid today

Posted by glock-coma on 14 April 2013 - 08:40 PM

Just thought I would post some pics

Here are some DIY 2"x12" car ramps I made.
Found these over @ evolutionm forum
http://forums.evolut...about-40-a.html
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2312[/ATTACH]

I used a Hydro-Turf oil extractor and a quart fluid pump both found on amazon.
http://www.amazon.co..._sim_sbs_auto_1
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2313[/ATTACH]


Pic of RDU fill plug....I used a 3/8 drive ratchet to remove it. The hole is pretty shallow, so the ratchet will not go completely in. Anyone know why that exhaust hangar is there?
There is not a bracket on the pipe below it
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2314[/ATTACH]

Drain plug before cleaning, and after. Some metal filings, but nothing to worry about
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2316[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2315[/ATTACH]

I couldn't completely warm up the fluid for easier extraction, I didn't want to deal with a hot exhaust while under the car. It was moving very slowly through the tube.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2317[/ATTACH]

I got out as much as I could, about 32 ounces by weight.
The fluid was pretty nasty. It was the consistency of syrup, maybe a little thicker
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2318[/ATTACH]

Here is a side by side of old fomoco "lifetime" fluid and new redline 75-w90
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2319[/ATTACH]

Wasn't that hard of a job, the pump just took awhile because of the thickness of the fluid.
While I was waiting, I also changed the spark plugs to the new updated part number
CYFS-12Y-3. Probably going to do the PTU fluid next week.

Attached Files


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#31684 2010 Lincoln MKT LMS tuned!!!

Posted by steve142857 on 08 March 2013 - 09:53 PM

Hey guys! Rick fromLivernois was kind enough to send me a few tunes this morning prior to his departure for the show... Since I had filled the MKT up with 91 octane this week, I couldn't upoad stage4+, so I went with stage 3 91 octane. I was with my kids and wife going to restaurant and I really want to try it... I did two small WOT and OMG, thast thing is a beast! Just from 25mph to 55mph... two times and my wife said, try it on your own, I'm gonna puke! So, while she was putting our youngest to bed (giving the milk etc.), I went back on my own and tried the thing... Now we're talking! I had already filmed a few runs with the 2013 SHO PP and now I filmed a few with the MKT and I timed them with an online timer... 2013 PP SHO completely stock was (in mph): 0-60: 5.4 sec. 0-80: 8.3 sec. 0-100: 12.6 sec. 2010 Lincoln MKT EB with LMS stage 3 (91 octane): 0-60: 5.4 sec. 0-80: 8.3 sec. 0-100: not tried... I will install stage 4+ in it this weekend, so for a few days/weeks, my fastest car will be the Lincoln MKT! hahaha! I believe that with stage 4+, I might see a 5 sec. flat! Not too shabby for a 5,000 lbs boat! Bring the Jeep SRT8 next... almost Cheers!
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#31464 Installed Aux Transmission Cooler WITH Adaptive Cruise Control

Posted by SkookumFord on 24 January 2013 - 09:59 PM

Hi, ya'll. Longtime lurker here. Have a 2011 SHO w/ ACC. I tow a small trailer, and I've been following BPD's Auxiliary Trans Cooler thread since the beginning. I was frustrated that it wasn't available for us guys with ACC, and decided to tackle it myself. OK, so this diagram shows the oem installation of the auxiliary trans cooler: [ATTACH=CONFIG]1602[/ATTACH] It uses two 'T' splitters in the hoses to split the fluid to both the primary cooler and the aux cooler, then to merge the fluid before returning to the trans. It's primarily these 'T' splitters and associated hoses that occupy the same space as the ACC Radar. Anyone who's installed an aftermarket cooler knows that this is an unnecessarily complicated way to plumb an aux cooler. I just rerouted the output line from the Primary Cooler to the input on the Aux Cooler, then spliced the output on the Aux cooler into the Return Line on the Trans. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1603[/ATTACH] Transmission Output -> Primary Cooler -> Aux Cooler -> Transmission Return I didn't bother replacing the bypass valve, or buying any of the other oem parts beside the cooler. The bracket that comes with the cooler interferes with the bracket that holds the ACC. I just cut the extra crap off the cooler bracket and bolted it to the ACC bracket. There's about 1" of space between the Cooler bracket and the ACC bracket. I just filled it with some washers I had laying around. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1597[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]1600[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]1598[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]1599[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]1601[/ATTACH] Put the bumper cover back on today, topped off the fluid, and took it for a spin to check for leaks. Now I can tow with confidence! [ATTACH=CONFIG]1604[/ATTACH]

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#31179 Ford Focus ST - New exhaust!

Posted by Scrming on 11 November 2012 - 08:59 AM

yeah, yeah... i know... "i'm not modding the ST..." well, that failed miserably! LOL! But it really wasn't my fault! Scott from MRT twisted my arm to let me try out the new MRT Eco-Flow exhaust on the ST... This is the prototype! So far I'm very impressed with the the system! I had a 90 minute drive home... cruising home it was surprisingly quiet, but yet when you get on the throttle it's a whole other story! Hoping to get some in cabin video today... might even hit the track..
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#30427 Brake Rotor and Pad upgrade

Posted by Scrming on 13 April 2012 - 11:43 AM

THIS IS NOT A MOD! Since I'm now trapping at 107 MPH, upgrading the rotors and pads is a SAFETY UPGRADE! Not a MOD!! yeah, that's it! LOL!

Rotors and pads arrived today from RotorPros:

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Ok... so it might be a bit RICER... but until I can afford some type of big brake kit ($$$$$)... these will have to do! LOL

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#31105 Replacing Blend Door Actuator Instructions

Posted by tss on 26 October 2012 - 09:02 AM

There are other threads discussing this, but I thought a dedicated thread with instructions might help others. I have received so much help here that it is payback time, finally, with me posting info that may help others (versus the other way around). :)

I did this last night in my MKS, and I have a 3 out of 10 skill level. The whole procedure took me about 15 minutes thanks to tips from others on this forum (particularly Jack Skellington and crash712us ).

The symptoms: Clicking/tapping noise coming from the dash area near the passenger side when the car is on and the climate control system is on.

The Part: Door blend actuator (part number: AA5Z-19E616-C) . I got mine on ebay for $19.00 shipped. It is a genuine Motocraft part. Here is the link to the part and a photo I took of the part.

http://www.ebay.com/...e&forceRpt=true


Posted Image


Directions:

Fully release your glove box door so it "hangs" down. There are two clips/bumper stops on the right and left side, towards the rear of the glove box interior that need to be removed to do this. It is the identical first step you take when changing the in-cabin air filter. Once the door drops, you will see this:

Posted Image


You will clearly see the white part. There are 2 clearly visible hexagon head screws holding it in. Remove them. Then, undo the electrical clip fastener. The part will now be free from the car.

Connect the electrical connector to the new part and try to insert the white gear shaft (attached to the rear of the actuator part) into the opening in the car to re-secure the part, using the 2 hex head screws, to the car.

In my case, the gear shaft was not properly lined up. You will note from the photo below, there is a small flat area on the gear shaft - it is not perfectly symmetrical, so it can only go in one way. If it does not line up, start the car and fiddle with the temperature control (hot/cold) , as that will turn the gear shaft clockwise and counter clockwise. Play with it until it is in the right position to insert with the 2 hex head screws lining up. This is very easy, but takes a minute or two to fiddle with to line it up. See non-symmetrical gear shaft below - the "flat" area is facing you.


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Once it is lines up, inserted, and the screws are back in, simply put the glove box back into position and re-insert the two rubber bumpers/stoppers. And, you are DONE!!! $19.00 and 15 minutes or less with nothing more than a hex head driver saves you a trip to the dealer.

P.S. If you have not changed yourecabin air filter in a while, You might want to do that before re-securing the glovebox, since the filter door is completely accessible.

The Culprit:

I opened up the broken actuator and the photo is below. You can see some inner gears are work down and broken in the center of the photograph.

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Hope all of this helps a fellow member! :)


TODD
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